The Lowdown on Tonkotsu Ramen
Calling all nerdy ramen lovers! Let’s get the lowdown on my personal favorite ramen style.
Tonkotsu is a style of ramen that originated in Fukuoka (see my post on Hakata Issou’s mind blowing tonkotsu) made from pork bones. This is not to be confused with the more specific broth called tonsoku which is made from specifically pork feet, something the chef and owner of Steam Cook Musashi in Iwakuni advised me recently. Although tonkotsu could be made from pork feet because pork feet contain bones. Similarly, do not make the mistake of searching for or saying tonkatsu if indeed you are hoping to find tonkotsu as tonkatsu is a deep fried pork dish typically served with a heaping pile of cabbage. More on that another time. ::Rubs brow:: Confused yet?
Anybone, the deal with tonkotsu ramen is this: It takes forever to make. It’s not just something you can expect to throw together one night after work. No, this is an all weekend affair and one that would likely take dozens of attempts to perfect. It takes a solid 14 hours, and that’s on the low end. The bones are boiled to oblivion until the broth turns from yellowy brown to a bubbling, milky off-white. This is largely due to the calcium, marrow, and collagen breakdown. Science! It is a very interesting, rewarding endeavor to say the least. The hubs and I actually did it once! Want to give it a shot? Check out this incredible how-to article by Serious Eats writer J. Kenji Lopez-Alt for more information on how to make your own tonkotsu.
In addition to this incredible cooking feat, tonkotsu ramen has what I can only describe, if done correctly, I might add, as this pure, unadulterated slightly funky flavor. Like, not as funky as blue cheese, but footy like perhaps parmesan or like your feet after they’ve marinated in thick socks all day. It has a heavy mouth feel (sorry for my nerdy sommelier terminology — this is a long way of saying it feels thick, but think perhaps like thinner than gravy but thicker than stew) and is incredibly porky. Depending on the other flavoring agents the chef decides to add in, like garlic or ginger, it could have a bit of earthy depth. Let us not forget too, the chashu, or slowly roasted pork belly, which is cooked separately than the soup, also imparts its own flavors. And let us not forget the incredible toppings! Nay! Slices of green onions and wood ear mushrooms are no strangers to tonkotsu. And soft boiled eggs and seaweed often make appearances.
I don’t know about you but I’ve come a long way from instant ramen which I shamelessly admit I used to absolutely crush after school on the daily. The roast chicken and the shrimp flavors were my jam.
What’s your favorite ramen style? Have you ever tried tonkotsu? Leave a comment so we can talk all things ramen!
